Lost in Hawaii – A Mountain Destination Like No Other

Hawaii: the small cluster of islands somewhere in the middle of the Pacific is a name every star-struck traveller knows, and dreams of visiting, but not so many make it from Europe. Nestled comfortably in the incomprehensibly blue Pacific, about 16 hours on planes (change flights in mainland USA) and 11 time zones away, Hawaii stands as the ultimate adventure holiday destination, and this spring I was lucky enough to visit this tropical paradise.

From the outset, O’ahu (the most populous island, on which I stayed) is utterly alien to the world’s many cultures and climates. After the long flights over two days, I was met by a constant heat wholly new to me, if pleasantly so. With the temperature at a constant 25oC, day and night, throughout the week, I found myself spending the entire week of my stay in the shorts and vest I rarely get to wear back home.  Humidity, too, can be an issue, although it only got sticky on one day of my stay. The peak is usually 79% in January, apparently.

The airport itself was also in stark contrast to those I had visited before. I flew in via Vancouver International Airport, a global hub serving 24 million people annually, which stands as a sparkling and bustling beacon in the world of aviation. The Daniel K. Inouye (Honolulu) Airport was the opposite, appearing lost in the 1970s. Faded murals and exotic plants creep up the marble walls, and with no need for windows (the heat really is that intense), aeroplanes pass by the building as if they are giant garden birds.

The airport serves as a good introduction to Hawaii, however. There are, essentially, two choices: you go to one of the big resort hotels, probably in Honolulu, probably near “world famous Waikiki Beach,” which are the same as they are the world over (so why bother going all the way to Hawaii?), or you go somewhere smaller, booked through HomeAway or Airbnb, and DIY it.

I opted for option B and so was quickly aware of the untamed nature of Hawaii, despite human attempts to build roads and buildings on it. Everywhere wild nature is trying to break through and subsume the concrete. Within hours of arriving, my phone was buzzing with a public alert of flash floods, then sirens started blaring outside, which I later learned was a test of the nuclear attack alarm system. I soon learned Hawaii keeps you on your toes.

My choice of holiday destination was the coastal town of Kailua, which I later learned was where the Obamas holiday, so I was in good company. Located on the eastern side of the island, the beaches here, and in the south, are sheltered from the huge Pacific waves by an offshore reef, so it’s safe to swim in the warm turquoise waters. The western side of the island is where the massive rollers crash into the beach – a surfer’s dream. Here beaches like Banzai Pipeline, Waimea Bay or the aptly named Sunset Beach, to name a few, are where surfers risk the riptide for the chance of riding that perfect wave. You can also sign up for surfing lessons.

Out of all the eastern beaches, however, I particularly enjoyed Lanikai: a quiet spot, with excellent views of the sunrise over the nearby Mokulua Islands, which can be reached by canoe.

But that’s not to say Hawaii is secluded to the sea. When the Polynesian people arrived on the islands somewhere between 124 and 800 CE, they didn’t stay simply for the excellent beaches. The great volcanic mountains that erupt from the surrounding ocean are nothing short of breathtaking, and the dense jungle which blankets it all is a treasure trove for wholly unique species of flora and fauna, as well as hidden jungle waterfalls accessible only by backcountry trails.

Though I did my best to avoid the more touristy aspects of Hawaii, I did indulge in the Kualoa Ranch Movie Site Tour, which takes you through the sets of some of Hollywood’s biggest blockbusters, from Jurassic Park to the more recent Jumanji: Welcome to the Jungle (and even my personal favourite, Lost).

Travelling through the ranch’s three valleys in a modified school bus, one can understand the magic which Spielberg saw when he chose to shoot his dino-flick there: on three sides the tourist is immersed in sweeping volcanic landscapes, across wide empty plains, as sunlight trickles over the emerald hills like honey. There’s plenty more to do at Kualoa too – horse riding, off-road vehicle driving and ziplining to name but a few.

Of course, a pretty picture is incomplete without depth, and the rich culture of Hawaii is testament to this fact. While one can learn of O’ahu’s ancient history at the Polynesian Cultural Centre on the north-eastern shore, or of more recent events such as the infamous attack on Pearl Harbour in downtown Honolulu, I find the best way to explore another culture’s idiosyncrasies is through the everyday.

Food is often at the heart of a nation’s identity, and Hawaii is no different. Alongside the almost stereotypical fare we imagine – pineapples, coconut, pork – Hawaii plays host to a myriad of exotic foods. Taro, the staple of the Polynesian people, presents itself in a variety of native dishes, most notably poi, a sweet purplish paste made from the plant’s stem.

Fusion food is a popular endeavour in many of Hawaii’s restaurants, with dishes like fish tacos and spam sushi (spam musubi) featuring on most menus. For the less adventurous, don’t worry: fast food and chain restaurants exist in ample numbers – McDonald’s is literally everywhere, trust me.

To me, however, Hawaii’s culture was most becoming in the little things: walking barefoot on tarred roads, going for nighttime swims under the full moon, buying tacky souvenirs from even tackier gift shops. The people are some of the friendliest in the world, coming from all walks of life to greet you with a happy ‘aloha’.

Though the islands may face threats of flash floods, smoke monsters and, most recently, nuclear oblivion, during my stay it was an invasion of feral chickens that had O’ahu up in arms (how a chicken can exactly be feral is anyone’s wonder). In Hawaii the coffee is iced, the rain is warm, the birds are bright and floral shirts aren’t just for the dads.

After all this, it was hard to leave this beautiful place, which was so distant from any holiday I had been on before. What stood out most to me was that Hawaii is a state of contrast. The islands exist in a constant juxtaposition of character, whether it’s the leafy American suburbs against a backdrop of great, sweeping jungle, or even the blend of European food against Asian influences from the east (or west), Hawaii really is a melting pot for the eccentricities of our world.

And yet, it’s these eccentricities that make the magic. While other countries attempt to dissuade their stereotypes, Hawaii embraces its own – hibiscus, palm trees and tiki. In this way, I think Hawaii is a destination like no other.

Image Supplier: Hawaii Tourism Authority